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Design Language of Khana and Ilkal
The essence of the Khana textile are the motifs that are formed using the extra warp all across the surface of the fabric. The motifs are each formed by the lifting of threads connected to the levers of the dobby. The different settings traditionally available are classified as 5 kol , 6 kol, 8kol, 10 kol etc meaning 5 levers, 6 levers etc in order.
Putani - 3 kol
Inspired by Channa dal
Hardi - 5 kol
Inspired by ber- round fruit
Kyadegi - 8 kol
Inspired the monsoon flower Kyadegi
Soojmallige - 10 kol
Inspired the Jasmine flower
The motifs were often arranged in different layouts to achieve a variation in design.
They were arranged in brick repeat and grid patterns interspersed with binding elements like the diamonds and the checkered pattern to reduce the float on the extra warp motifs
The traditional Chikki Paras border of Ilkal sarees
The traditional Gayatri border of Ilkal sarees - Base warp and extra warp in silk, weft in cotton
The traditional tope teni motif in the pallu of the Ilkal saree inspired by Jowar millet.
Design approach followed at Kubsa was to keep the traditional techniques intact while optimizing and playing with colour, texture, proportions and design elements.
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